The golf pro doesn't have to have the latest, expensive equipment and a state-of-the-art workshop to custom build top-quality clubs. What they do need is an understanding of club specifications and how to make a true set of custom-fit clubs. Here I am going to look at the benefits, options and characteristics of steel golf shafts, and how to work with them.
The shaft is not the only important component of a golf club, but I honestly believe it is the most important, and for golfers to reach their potential they need the correct shaft material, flex, weight and bending profile.
Check the flex
Fitting the correct flex is of paramount importance, as it affects distance, trajectory and accuracy.
A shaft is too stiff when a golfer does not have the strength or technique to "load" the shaft, and the normal consequences are a loss of distance and a low fade. A shaft is too flexible if the club is difficult to control, and while it might increase shot distance, it will tend to produce inconsistent yardage and a wide shot dispersion.
In general, if a golfer is looking for greater accuracy it is better to fit a firmer shaft, but if distance is the priority then a softer flex is better.
Shaft flex can be fitted by measuring a golfer's clubhead speed, by using an inexpensive club speed analyser and by watching ball flight, and most shaft manufacturers provide recommended clubhead speed ratings for their shafts.
Find optimum weight
Steel shafts are traditionally quite heavy, but there have been recent, major technological breakthroughs that enable some steel shafts to weigh almost the same as graphite.
Shaft weight has a major impact on the total weight of a club, and the lighter the shaft the faster a club can be swung. For the less powerful golfer a light shaft can be extremely beneficial, increasing control and producing extra distance. A faster, more aggressive swing may struggle to maintain control of a light shaft club, and would be better suited to a heavier, more traditional shaft.
Kick point
Every steel shaft has a kick point rating - high, mid or low. The flex dictates the kick point, so a stiff shaft will have a high kick point and as the flex weakens, the kick point moves lower down the shaft. In reality, the difference in launch angle between a high kick and low kick is no more than one degree, so the kick point of a steel shaft has virtually no bearing on ball trajectory.
Torque
The torque of a steel shaft is also negligible, to the point that it is of no relevance when fitting.
Step pattern
Most steel shafts have an external step pattern due to the manufacturing process. By putting steps in a shaft it is the cheapest way to reduce a steel tube's diameter from butt to tip, and it has little influence on the playing characteristics of a shaft. The only significant factor is the length of the
A section - from tip to first step: generally, the longer the step, the softer the shaft.
Shock vibration
Any shock created at impact resonates up a steel shaft, which can cause problems in the wrists, elbows and shoulders. For golfers with joint problems there are a variety of shock-dampening systems that can be fitted.
Shaft preparation and installation
Once the right steel shaft has been selected, follow these simple steps to install it quickly and so it plays as the manufacturer intended:
- Check the manufacturer's tip-trimming instructions - these are vital to flex and performance.
- Number the shafts, from 3-PW for example, and clearly mark the tip trim for each shaft.
- Cut the tips using a chop saw with an abrasive wheel or a plumber's pipe cutter.
- Remove the chrome from the tips using a file, a coarse emery paper or belt sander. This provides a rough surface to which the epoxy can bond. If the heads don't require ferrules, be careful not to prep the shaft above the hosel as this would lead to the shaft rusting.
- Carefully measure and cut the clubs to the final playing length.
The clubs are now ready to be swing-weighted, which will be covered in the next issue.
